Central Xi'an and the Great Mosque

On Friday, Hu Laoshi and I went with Dr. Anthony and one of Madame Jiao’s assistants for a tour of the central part of Xi’an. Our stops included the drum and bell towers, and my favorite places, the bazaar and Great Mosque.

In the morning, we had an opportunity to walk on the city wall for a bit as well. The Wall is 14km in circumference, all in, or somewhere around 7 miles or so. During the Tang Dynasty, the drum and bell towers were timekeeping devices to notify the gatekeepers when to open and shut the gates. They were open in the morning to let merchants and people in, then shut. At the end of the day, the signal was given to open them to let people out for the night before they were shut again until morning. The four of us enjoyed a jiaozi wufan, or dumpling lunch. There were 14 different kinds served to us, and many of the wrappings were closed in a special, artful way. I really enjoyed this low-key meal.

After eating, we walked through the bazaar. Here we all did some shopping for friends and family back home, and I tried my hand at bargaining. At one point, a woman led Hu Laoshi and me into an alley in the back behind the store and showed us another room full of antiques – all for sale of course. Unfortunately, neither my wallet nor backpack was big enough for these treasures!

We continued on our way through the narrow, winding alley lined with items for sale until we reached the Great Mosque. Because Xi’an was a stop along the Silk Road, the Mosque was in use back in the day for traders from the Middle East, and is still used as a place of worship today. We arrived just as 3PM prayers were letting out. I used a telephoto lens here to take many of my pictures – I didn’t want to shove the camera in these guys’ faces just because I wanted a shot.

Muslim Man and his Bicycle

You could also really see the blending of Islamic style and Chinese style here. One example was the presence of Chinese architecture along with Arabic script and the ubiquitous Chinese dragons. All of this was a reminder that Islam is a religion, not a country or something. It was also great visual evidence of how Muslim people adapted to the worlds they inhabited.

I had the opportunity to speak Mandarin today as well. I found it useful with shopkeepers, the woman who did some calligraphy, and the ticket taker at the Mosque. He had a cat who we talked about in Chinese and offered to sell him to me as a joke. “How much? How much?" he kept saying. Then he laughed and said, “Joking, joking. He is my buddy.” (He said "buddy" in English!) I bet he is!

Door from Mosque to ?

I

Our guide told us that the reason the Mosque survived the Cultural Revolution was because the Islamic population in Xi'an was highly organized. "They were determined, " was one way he put it. It was no small thrill to see the beauty of this place in early spring of 2008 and experience the survival of its reverant energy.

Close of 3PM Prayers

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Really big Show Part II

To continue with the previous entry about the first full day of classes:

After classes in the main building, our students went down to the large room we will be using for a general headquarters and supplemental classroom. There students will receive Chinese classes, arts classes and will work on their Sharon High assignments. They had their Chinese class, but it was cut short because they had to rehearse for the afternoon's assembly. Their Chinese teacher has been preparing them to sing "Edelweiss". He has a lovely voice but is not a music teacher per se. I attempted to be helpful, but it was a bit awkward. I am a musician, certainly, but not a music teacher per se, and my role was not quite understood by the Chinese teacher in this case I don't' think. I also didn't want to step on any toes. I ran them through a basic a Capella rehearsal of it, but the musical training in our group ran from a good amount to nil. there was also the issue of them having to sing Edelweiss of course and wear the tops that Mr, Shang had given them as gifts the day before. wearing the tops was good idea as the kids sort of matched in a Brady Bunch sort of way, and more importantly it honored Mr Shang, but it wasn't the fashion the kids were accustomed to. Finally, thankfully, it was time for lunch.

Students, like Yafei and I, had been issued meal tickets which they swipe across an electronic device to purchase lunch. Our kids ended up eating in the wrong dining hall, I guess, the one that Y and I eat in for breakfast. One of our assistants was concerned about this I think because either she thought it was unsuitable or not what was planned or maybe a little of both. The kids just went with it. Food is food. Then there was another brief rehearsal, this time with the soprano sax (?) player who was going to be their accompanist. He played beautifully; I guess maybe you think he was trying to bring the notion of a sort of Alpine Horn to mind. Or not. I ended up not playing the piano because it was just getting too complicated. this was fine with me. I want to learn to play the Chinese hammered dulcimer or one of those two stringed instruments that sit on your lap.

The performance itself was quite an extravaganza. I video recorded it and will post highlights on the School website. Once again, we had to make surprise speeches. I feel like I should have anticipated this from Japan, but Japan is not China, right? George, Y, and I improvised on the spot and the kids stood across the stage and said their names again. Gao Xin High School students are quite talented in wide variety of ways beyond the academic. There was chorus performance, a 15 year old doing sword kung fu, two dancers, oratory, and a presentation about how Chinese is still the mother tongue of this country. I'm sure I am forgetting something. There were student MCs. one girl and one boy, VERY professional-sounding speakers -- I think this is an art they train them for. Brookline High kids did a cool dance number plus a spring poem reading. Our kids really did a great job never mind that it was Edelweiss in Chinese (complete with a slide presentation of countryside scenes on a screen behind them that someone in the school put together), unusual stage costumes and only about 1.66 rehearsals. Time and time again, these kids are put into situations where they need to show poise and just improvise a with what to do. Many adults would not be able to do this. Amazing.

After the performance, kids went home. Some of our kids and some of the Brookline kids live near one another so they walked; a couple got picked up by their host families; one kid went home on the public bus, accompanied by his host mother who was showing him the way.

I walked up on my own to the market. I wanted to get some food for breakfast that I could eat in my little room. Because I was exhausted inside and out, the trip was a little disquieting. For one thing, it is huge modern store like I said before with groceries and household items, clothes, toys, you name it. Most of the customers are absolutely silent, as is the help who wear badges that say in English "Lotus Market We Want to help" and a yellow smiley. No one smiles even if you interact with them and I am not sure they really want to help. Plus there is a jingle that plays over and over endlessly, that I could sing right now. On top of that there is Chinese pop music. The check out "queue" is a clump of people and they will bump you out of the way with their carts if they want. They will push into the open spaces in aisles and lines. And they do stare. I smile, I get the death stare. When I speak in Chinese, they say ALOT in Chinese, but open up a little. Not everyone speaks English for sure. But you can buy Chinese groceries there. They are colorful.

I purchased what I thought was muesli (it wasn't -- more on that later) and yogurt, which was yogurt -- I know that character -- and scoped out the bicycles. I also had to buy a bowl and a spoon and a knife. I have a cup, fortunately. All of this hearkens back to my 20s when I lived in households where the kitchen had only a very few items -- but somehow lots of chopsticks -- and there were only mugs to drink out of.

Because I am not staying in a hotel, I am having the unique experience of trying to fend for myself a bit more, which is part of the adventure of course. Knowing some Chinese has been very helpful not only trying to get things done, but in feeling less disoriented. Slightly. I use it all the time, and like in other places I have been, people seem to appreciate it.

Classes and a Really big Show Part I

Having gotten over the initial sort of hazing experience with my little living quarters, getting ready for school was less of a big deal. I would love a bath right now, though. Yafei and I ate once again in the George Orwell dining hall. I am getting very good at food words and saying "a little, thank you" in Mandarin. I had a sort of pita pocket that tasted like a dry matzo and an egg. Given the choices, it was exactly what I wanted. You are supposed to put things in the pita pocket like vegetables and meat, but I said "none" in Chinese. Utter bafflement. Not at the Chinese, but at my request. Crazy American. My stupid frozen Eggo waffles that I eat on the way to school at home are seeming pretty good. The food is really OK, but it is something else to adjust to. I have no idea what I am eating sometimes vegetable wise. I have switched over to mostly veggie for the time being.

The kids managed to get from their homes to the classroom building and up 5 flights of stairs and into their classrooms without our supervision. I checked on them, and there they were with all 62 of their classmates in most cases. Yafei and I observed an English class.

This was pretty interesting, as it is when you really have the opportunity to observe a lesson that someone has prepared for that purpose. The teacher was doing her regular lesson, but she knew we would be observing. They basically watch our every move -- did so especially at the visit to the international campus, and this observation was scheduled. This may calm down eventually. I think in part they are just taking care of us.

Kids purchase their textbooks, and they consist of thin workbooks that when stacked on the desk top out at about 6 or seven inches. Class started out with a student reading the first paragraph in The Hound of the Baskervilles of all things in English. Then students were asked to say what the story might be about. When they did not respond (this is Conan Doyle and his longish sentenced 19th century English for goodness sake), the teacher said kindly, "Perhaps you will have more luck if he reads it again. Please," and with that formally indicated for the boy to repeat what he just read. Students then raised their hands, and stood each time they had a response, and paraphrased in excellent English what they thought it might be about. They were slightly confused as there was Dr. Watson and Dr. Mortimer, but still impressive.

As class progressed through a brainstorming session about life on other planets, the teacher periodically changed the pictures on the screen at the front of the room. It would be so excellent (hint hint to anyone who can do anything about this) if all the History rooms had the in focus projectors mounted in the ceiling. I really saw how this worked; it made choreographing the technology that much easier. The students also conversed in pairs and then were called upon to give the results of their discussions. Their workbooks contained a reading selection about going into space and then they had to write a piece for homework about problems and solutions one might encounter on such a journey.

Interestingly, in this classroom and in others we visited, all the teachers said something like "We have heard from boys. Any girls who wish to respond?" And there always were -- several -- and they were as articulate and expressive as the boys, definitely. I found out later, that the teachers at this school have been learning American methods at a special teaching school in Xi'an. The "flexible teaching methodology" was something we as Americans were credited with at the assembly later.

I am, however, beat. (This is a recurring theme.) We have a three day weekend coming up, so maybe I will have a chance to catch up on this a little. I went to the store tonight (20 minute walk both ways -- bicycle in my near future, for sure) and had to do hand laundry ,which with no hot water in a sink tap is a project. Living here is a little like camping, but you have to wear real clothes. And there is Chinese food for every meal!!!!!!! The heat is not turned on in the buildings and they keep doors open. It is probably 50 degrees in the building during the day. I wear my leather jacket constantly. I must be a sight by now. I'll get someone to take a picture, but I might scare myself.

zzzzzzzzzzzzz

First day of School, and First Day with the new Suit

I set my new alarm for 6:00 and it dutifully rang, thank goodness. At 6:01, Yafei knocked on my door because she had no hot water. Our set-up in the shower is a little different than at home -- a not too big tank sits on top of the shower stall which has one of those hand held doohickeys, but no tub or shower head. The tank is allegedly heated by turning on an electric switch. Poor Y's doesn't work. She decided to tough it out and take a cold shower, even though I offered to let her use mine when I was done. The bathroom is somewhat rustic shall we say, and rusty, too come to think of it. I did shower and discovered the stall leaks all over the floor. Hmmm.

Breakfast was in the cafeteria on the ground floor. We were issued meal cards which we swipe across an electronic device, But imagine this is from a certain Orwell book in terms of its decor. Sharon High's cafeteria is tre moderne in comparison. I had a plain ole Chinese bun and a hard boiled egg and tea. It was fine. The food here is pretty good and I am a little worn out from the banqueting anyway.

We met the kids at 7:30 and they were divided up into crowded classrooms of 50 or so students. They had classes like physics and English with them, and then we met for their Chinese class. They fared pretty well there, and the text they are using the same one from Boston Language Institute's where I took my few lessons.

This school system has 5 schools. The facility where we are is one of the oldest, I believe. I need to write down some data about it. We get the use of our own large class and meeting room while we are here. It has desks, an actual chalk board, and an increasingly popular ping pong table.

After the lessons, the entire school lined up in the athletic area outside, lined up in double lines, mind you, and straight ones, too. Before we knew it, each of us from Sharon, including the kids had to step up in front of the microphone and say something. This was news to us. I got through introducing myself in Chinese, saying I taught History and please excuse my little Mandarin. Kids said their Chinese names, English names and their ages, all in Mandarin. George said words of welcome in English. Yafei looked in control of herself and said a ton of things in Mandarin. We all received Chinese dictionaries. Including Yafei. George is thoughtfully donating his to our classroom here at the Gaoxin High School. I guess he won't be needing it.

Changing plans seems to be the norm here , which I find surprising. We are given a schedule, say, and then we are told 15 minutes or so before the change that something else is going to happen. For example, the kids are going to perform in front of the whole school tomorrow at an assembly. They are going to sing "Edelweiss" in Chinese (??) Oh yeah, and I will play the piano. I am still unclear about how this came about. I asked for music once I got this little piece of news, and they gave me a piece of paper with Chinese text and numbers on it. I had to ask for a Western staff. "Ohh, the thing with five lines on it!" Yes, please. I got half of the score with no bass. I want to sit in front of the piano and pencil in the chord changes because I am just ever so slightly nervous about this whole thing. Too bad the piano is scheduled all day tomorrow. AAAH.

We also all went to lunch, kids included, at a fancy restaurant with Madame Jiao and Shang again. No flat screen with Chinese action movie, however. We all sat, 15 of us, at a huge round table with a giant lazy susan in a fancy private dining room. It was like King Arthur meets Jackie Chan and the Last Emperor or something. There were endless starters, toasts and the main event was Peking Duck and fish head. Madame J sat me down next to her -- she speaks no English whatsoever -- and kept putting food on my plate. She toasted me numerous times with Peach nectar in a brandy snifter. Kids had fun mixing juices together and swirling their brandy snifters around. They mostly paid attention to the speeches and discussion.

Shang said something I really liked about how important education was. But what he said specifically was that one should read many books, make friends, and travel, and that is how one becomes educated. This is of course what has worked for me. I hope the Sharon kids got some of this. The discipline and true talent of the Chinese students in this school is dawning on them, and it will be interesting to see what they make of all this in the end.

I ate less than the night before, but did have to chomp some fish head. I thought of how my cat Sister would have liked it.

And I haven't even gotten to the afternoon where we visited the international campus, played ping pong in a giant room with several tables, and a beautiful piano was unveiled in a very fancy music room. This was all well and good until the head of that school pointed at the piano and then at me. The huddled masses got real American music, "Summertime." I wish I understood everything Yafei says in Chinese.

To bed. More anon.

Xi'an Arrival

We started out on the train, which was fine since we were all together and not moving any luggage, which is decidedly different for me this time around since I did not "pack light". I bunked in with 3 nice kids who didn't seem too freaked out by me being there.

I really must say how impressed I have been with the kids. As most of you who know me know, this is saying alot. I am not easily impressed by anything. They have stomped around China, tried everything to eat that was put in front of them, played games with people at The Temple of Heaven. (a great story -- watch this space) and dragged their stuff through the Beijing and Xi'an train stations, something requiring courage and athleticism. No joke. And, to put a word in for the girls, never mind the ladies' rooms in China.

So we get to Xi'an, off the train and join a throng of people heading out into a workaday world of drizzle, noise and city traffic that makes Boston drivers look like old ladies. the kids get tossed into a bus, adults into a car and we all head out to the school where the kids meet their host families. It is not yet 10AM.

Once we all got to the high school, it got really hard. The kids needed to split from our group to go with their host families who are Chinese. There is more to tell about the details and nuance of this, but suffice it to say, everyone's comfort level shifted dramatically. There were tears, a near fainting spell, and real trepidation, and this wasn't even from me.

Yafei, George and I had lunch with the school head in the teacher's lunchroom. The head speaks no English, but the teachers who are assigned to help us do. We were shown to our rooms and I unpacked. Yafei and I each have our own little suite -- a bedroom, bathroom with shower head in a stall and small kitchen with a sink and fridge. It's a little worn, but really fine.

Later in the afternoon, we visited the kids to see how they were settling in. we were surprised in some cases to see who had recovered from the initial shock, and who hadn't. I am glad we went around to check on them; I think all of them were glad to see us. This is big deal for these kids who are so sheltered and who have their parents do everything for them including getting them up for school in the morning. I was surprised how few of them brought alarm clocks. Who did they think was going to wake them up? Anyway, I am sure this entire experience is going to be something that really changes many of them; I thought that before, but I am really seeing how that is the case now that we are here.

Students are staying in these frighteningly gaudy and high end apartments in some cases, and middle class residences in others. Sleeping accommodations (all have a private room) range from formal king sized bedrooms with flat screen TVs all their own to a cot set up in a side office.

After all this, which took 3 hours, Yafei, George and I went to an "informal" dinner (meant men wore jackets, not ties) in FANCY restaurant by head guy and head woman of entire Gaoxin system (not just our school) That is a whole other story. I can thank a story from Korea my dad told about 8 million times and Gran Burton for how I got through a formal meal with mandatory red wine (which I managed only to pretend to drink, even when toasting), shrimp with heads on sticks and some other things. We ate in very fancy separate dining room with a flat screen TV that, for the entire time, was playing a Chinese movie with shooting, car crashes, and serious kissing in it. No one seemed to notice this.

We were given gifts. Yafei and I got a pink sparkly Chinese lady blouse (WHEN am I going to wear that?) and Beijing Olympic T Shirts. Hope mine's a men's medium. Also, we were served this very good juice/vinegar beverage (sounds weird, but it was really good) and it was clear Y and I really liked it. Mr. Sheng, who made and received several phone calls during our dinner, made a secret phone call somehow and had his driver pick up two cases of it for us which was waiting for us in his chauffeured car when we left dinner. We had been being driven around all day by Madame Jiong's car and driver. She is the head of Gaoxin system.

After dinner, the driver dropped George off at his hotel, and us off at a HUGE store (think Walmart plus major grocery chain) and Yafei and I went shopping for stuff like a towel, alarm clock for me, cleaning stuff . I bought hand laundry soap with a kitty cat on it. Have no idea if it's good or not -- wanted the kitty. I was a major spectacle in that place as was Yafei as soon as she spoke English to me or as some combination of English and Chinese.

And now I am back here again. I need to go to bed. Tomorrow: first day of school.

Arrival!

We're in China -- Beijing to be precise -- with the kids now. So far so good! The whole trip here travel-wise seemed uneventful; of course my sleeping for about 7 hours on the plane helped me in more than one way. I also bought almonds and dried fruit in the Chicago airport and so had something to snack on when we got here -- also a good thing for me.

Yafei and I are getting along well with one another in general which is great. There is a whole story about that side of this trip to be told, which will emerge at some point as it continues to unfold I think.

As I travel more and more internationally, I learn alot about how to take care of myself so I can just go along with what is going on here. This is huge. When I came to China last time,my life was in a different place and so was I. This seems easier.

The hotel is full of white international tourists -- but we seem to be the only Americans. It is "fine". The rooms seem fairly upgraded, but the breakfast, however ample and diverse was of OK quality. Totally fine, though, really. I think I have been spoiled by the little places Ruthie and I have stayed in Europe.

The trip to the market -- a huge sort of flea market indoors -- was an interesting walk through typical Beijing street -- nothing fancy or for tourists-- and it was great to see the kids in public and seeming comfortable enough. No bargaining in there. I bought a knapsack from the "Little Sheep" brand and it has a cheerful saying in Chinglish on it. That and the price plus the fact that it will suit my needs nicely sold me, but in the end I think it was the Little Sheep thing that got me to purchase that one.

Today's Tao Te Ching selection, chosen by me opening the book at random:

Starts out: "That which will be shrunk must first be stretched./That which will be weakened, must first be strengthened...../That which will be taken must first be given/...

That is subtle illumination"

There is more, but that's enough for here. Let's see if this is manifest in today's activities to come. I think maybe it will have to do with "subtle illumination." mine or others'.

"Haven't you left for China yet, Beebs?"

Every day for at least a week, I have been getting this from my next door neighbor at work. No. Not yet. Day after tomorrow. Tonight, said bye to my mom, more laundry and loading up the Mp3 player -- I am sure they won't have Brahms in China or something. Or the Doors. I have no idea why I picked some of this music or if I will listen to it. We'll see.